Articles by Nicholas Whitaker - Cairo, Egypt
August 15th, 2005
--DAY 1--
My colleague Mary and I arrived safely into Cairo airport at around 7:00 P.M. on what was Thursday evening in Cairo. Cairo is 10 hours ahead of Sacramento time which means that we both lost god knows how much time flying. I do not know if it was part of the flight plan but our pilot took us into Cairo by flying around the Pyramids of Giza and both Mary and I practically hyper-ventilated at the sight of such an historic and truly magnificent sight. Looking out the window of the airplane revealed the sheer vastness of Cairo as its urban influence spreads its tentacles for as far as the eyes can see, even from around 1000-2000 feet above. From what we saw of the Cairo airport and its International Terminal it was relatively ordinary and I was surprised to notice that the inside of the terminal actually reminded me of many Middle Eastern bazaars.
Mary and I were able to obtain entry Visas quite easily and proceeded to the baggage claim by quickly claiming our utter defeat of the Arabic language and relenting to being tourists. As soon as we got to the baggage claim we were greeted by a kind young gentleman with something that resembled an official badge who told us that he would take care of getting our bags and taking us to our hotel for a small fee and would even provide a receipt as proof of his legitimacy. A fee of around $15 seemed quite reasonable considering he took care of getting us out of the airport and on to the busy streets towards our hotel. The taxi ride has already been the stuff of legends as I could not tell you how many times we honestly thought we were going to die. I couldn't help but notice the way in which our driver and tour guide navigated the streets by pretty much pushing their way into a lane and relying on faith that the driver already occupying that space would give in. This was often done at speeds in excess of 60 mph and although there appeared to be room for 2-3 lanes, there were no lines to designate them and so the roads were a virtual jigsaw puzzle of cars, vans, and trucks.
Despite the driver’s best efforts we arrived at our hotel intact and proceeded to find our reservation that did not exist. Turns out we had the wrong hotel but before you say "Nick you moron" please consider that nobody and I mean nobody thought it important to let us know, among their numerous chances, as to the existence of a Tulip Hotel and the Golden Tulip Hotel. Both Mary and I put forth our best efforts to convince the hotel management that it was their mistake and although we did not know until after we got to our rooms of the other hotel, we still got a great rate out of it. The Golden Tulip Flamenco Hotel is in Zamalek which is a very westernized part of downtown Cairo about 10-15 minutes from its very heart. We are in great proximity to the Internet Cafe across the street, a laundry, and many shops within walking distance.
The most amazing thing that has struck me thus far about Cairo is that despite my previous years in the Middle East as a young child and all that I swore I thought I knew about most Middle Eastern cities, my first night here has taught me that I know absolutely nothing about this culture and its seemingly "backward" ways. This is not to say that it is truly backward but obviously just very different from what I am used to and something that will take a lot of adjusting to. The people have been so friendly thus far and all too eager to genuinely help us. What that means in all honesty is that I don't really know if I have been screwed yet or not but I still have quite a bit of money left and my wallet to boot.
--DAY 2--
We have had a much better day thus far. I am feeling a little less homesick today and a little better adjusted. As for now, the two things that are going to take the most time to get used to are the time difference and the friendliness. In my experiences I usually get more homesick around dusk and then am able to shake it off and feel better shortly thereafter.
We took a nice walk around the hotel neighborhood today. We were feeling quite bold and decided to walk down to a cafe on the Nile. The hotel where we are staying is located very close to the Nile but the concierge was kind enough to let us know of a better place to eat down by the Marriot Hotel. The walk was a lot longer than expected but it ended up being a good thing as we were able to walk past many of the embassies here including those belonging to Spain, Algeria, the Netherlands, Bahrain, and Germany. They are all situated in beautiful buildings and I only wish that the people here were also able to live in such luxury. So far we have met nothing but very kind Egyptian people. The police seem to be everywhere but most seem to be very friendly and helpful for those who can speak English.
We both are going to have to get used to the stares we get from most of the locals. I would love to think that it is because I am so good looking and handsome but my better senses tell me that it is because we are foreign and stick out like very sore thumbs. On our way back to the hotel we walked past many groups of people praying in big and small mosques. I was afraid that Americans walking by would only incite a riot but we were lucky that this was not so. Many of the people here are just as devout as they are kind. One cannot escape the sound of prayer blaring from any one of the many mosques scattered around the city. Although it is very loud it is easy to appreciate both the poetic and harmonic skills of those behind the microphones. I am used to all of the prayer intermissions from my experiences living in the Middle East many years ago but observing it now that I am not as youthfully oblivious is quite an experience.
I would love to say that we are getting much better acclimated to this country but I know that so far we have only stayed close to the touristy areas and once we venture out into the real world we will see much more. Most of the students will not start arriving until next week and then we will be able to meet them and hopefully start our group getaways to places such as the Pyramids and the Red Sea attractions. We have seen a few groups of both Americans and other foreigners, who like us, are easy to pick out no matter how hard we/they try to not stand out. Unfortunately, perhaps a combination of the uneasiness of adjusting to the culture and an effort to absorb as much of the surroundings as possible, cause them to stick to themselves, so we have not had an opportunity to have any prolonged conversations with them.
Tomorrow should be quite an enjoyable experience as I am to meet an acquaintance who lives in Cairo in order to begin my search for an apartment. I have no idea of what to expect and only what I would like to see. I have been told that furnished apartments are quite affordable here and that they are just as plentiful. The two things that I have been most apprehensive about since arriving here are finding an apartment and getting a mobile phone. With any luck I should be able to procure both by the end of the weekend. Having a mobile phone is quite essential here and the ratio of cell phone to people is quite on par with that in Davis or anywhere else in the world. The ring-tones are pretty interesting as although I have had not heard any 50 cent, Jay-Z, or Bob Marley, I have heard an assortment of both traditional Arabic and what can only be describes as techno-Arabic emanating from many of the cell phones.
What cannot possibly be overstated and what I cannot properly lend justice to is the kindness shown to us by so many of the Egyptians around here. I was told before coming here that Egyptians are among the most hospitable people in the Middle East but I couldn’t help but think that was most people said about any country that young unsuspecting students were potentially spending a large portion of time in. Although I must admit that thus far we have only traveled among the touristy areas, we have already had the fortune of walking among many of the locals here. I could not have possibly appreciated more the care and hospitality the people here have shown us from those of whom we asked directions from as well as those who just pass by and kindly acknowledge or even initiate a “how do you do” or “How are you.” This goes so far in helping us to feel both comfortable and relatively accepted in a city of which we know so little.
Another of the biggest surprises thus far has been the sheer size of this city. From the airplane one could see forever the buildings, streets, and reach of Cairo but getting down on the ground only magnifies it by a thousand. This does have its advantages however as things are pretty close together and a taxi cab ride to the heart of Cairo from our hotel is only 10 minutes away. I do not know how traffic moves here as there seem to be so many cars and not enough room for them to move around in but I imagine it would be difficult to have to catch a cab every day or ride the crowded buses. There are countless taxis here and it takes some time to get used to the fact that every one that passes by honks at us to ask if we need a ride. It is both comforting to know that they will always be there but also disconcerting to know that we must stick out enough to convey a sense of being both lost and foreign. We are able to make the most out of it however as a simple shaking of the head results in a friendly smile from the drivers only to begin the cycle over again when the next cab drives by moments later.
Much Love,
Nicholas
Cairo, Egypt
August 29th 2005
The best thing so far this week has been finding a dream of an apartment. Although we are most likely paying more than most students here, we realize it and did I mention we have a view of the Nile from every room in the apartment. The place is furnished and adorned with items that make it feel cozy and much like what a summer cottage in some really hot country would feel like if I knew what that felt like. We have 2 bedrooms on opposite sides of the apartment and air conditioning units in each room. The kitchen is small but the last time I checked, eating out requires little to no cooking. The bathroom is the second smallest room in the house, although we face the risk of constant flooding from the shower. My bedroom consists of two single beds, a desk, and something the French call an armoire. Due to the tall genes in my family, my legs stick out the bottom and I can only imagine what it would be like if I were actually tall. I still have not adapted to either the time difference nor my own insomnia so sleeping accommodations are currently of little importance. Although we are encouraged to subject ourselves to as much cultural immersion as humanly possible, Mary and I have applied for what people over here are calling, Satellite television. It is very cheap and will hopefully provide us with a little refuge from the vastness of Cairo with a few horrible American movies and if we are lucky some good old fashioned Arabic Music television.
School will begin on the 5th of September and if classes are anything like the orientations we have been attending, we are all in for the longest and most redundant semester in school history. We have already attended three orientations and still have another four left. The only good news about them is that the last one will be hosted at some Red Sea resort whose name I could butcher. So far we have met many students from throughout both the U.S. and Europe. We are meeting up with representatives from Virginia, Massachusetts, D.C., Colorado, and our beloved California later tonight for what will hopefully be some kind of culturally sensitive bonding experience. The other students that we have met seem to be very good students but I have assured them not to be intimidated by my blank, empty stares and reassured them that I always bring down the class curve.
As I mentioned in my previous E-mails, getting around Cairo in a taxi is quite an amazing if not pants soiling experience. Although some roads are marked with lanes, nobody pays any attention to them and turnabouts are just about the most nerve-racking thing since that forest burning scene from Bambi. At the beginning of this last week Mary and I took a taxi to the airport to pick up the third and final member of our UC Davis posse. I think I had my eyes shut the whole time but I do remember at one point turning and telling Mary that I had some good news and bad news. The good news was that we were making great time and would be at the airport much faster than expected. The bad news was that the cab was beginning to smell like gasoline. Speaking of gasoline, an interesting factoid that we have picked up is that a gallon of gasoline here costs about one dollar. I thought that I would throw that in there since most people reading this E-mail reside in a state where they would likely trade their children in for a gallon or two of fuel.
Anyway, the other exciting thing we did yesterday was to visit the Pyramids!! There is too much to describe but my first impression of them was their immense size. The pyramids are enormous, and not in like a “that is an enormous scoop of ice cream” enormous, I mean cones that are comprised of 2.5 million stones each weighing around 2 tons enormous. We could not go inside the pyramids, which was kind of disappointing, but I have been told that they consist of an infinite amount of tunnels and small rooms. I think that they only allow the first 150 people in per day but that could have been just what they tell Americans!! We also saw the Sphinx and it is truly a testament to what I could do with the proper resources and only a million or two slaves!! Lunch that day consisted of a typical Egyptian meal, full of falafel, goat cheese, vegetables, eggplant, and my new favorite word, Baba Ganoosh!!
This city is truly amazing. What it lacks in good smells it more than makes up for in the number of people and pollution. One of our new Egyptian friends has told us that during the day the city of Cairo consists of around 20 million people and is only reduced to around 17 million when the others return to their homes only a few miles outside the city. Your imagination of how huge this must be cannot be overstated and I assure you that I too have no idea as to how anything can move. Even with all of this hustle and bustle, our EAP advisor has told us that most Egyptians have still not returned from vacation and that it will most certainly get twice as bad. I feel that I have not done this most welcoming city many favors in my ranting and raving. The people here are incredibly friendly and once they realize that we are as lost as we look they are more than happy to help. Overcoming the language barrier is the most difficult task we face on a day to day basis but I promise that once our classes start I will know more than hello, welcome, please, thank you, and help!!
Perhaps the most daunting cultural challenge that I have faced thus far is the inability to truly be able to trust people. This is not to say that the Egyptians cannot be trusted but rather that it is always difficult to get to know people enough to really trust them and that moving to a place where you know few if no people at all, is something that can never be overrated. Staying at hotels gives you a chance to come to the realization that people are nice to you primarily because they would like your money. Again this is not to say that Egyptians are any different than most people. What is difficult for them is that they see Americans come in to their country and most of them have money. A typical Egyptian makes between 25-50 Egyptian pounds a day. This translates into anywhere between 5 and 10 US dollars. From what they see on the American shows broadcasted on television and the people that enjoy the fruits of their labors, how could they not believe that we grow money out of our ears? They all want a piece of it and it would take an idiot to think that any human being would not treat us in such a manner. I am saying this not to chastise either Americans or Egyptians but rather to illustrate the importance of being aware of our surroundings. I am by no means a spokesperson for the cause of anyone not born with a silver spoon in their mouth but the journey thus far has given me new perspective on what poor people really live like. I think the two most popular jobs here in Cairo are washing cars and selling packs of tissue on the street. The children who sell them have mastered the art of salesmanship as their persistence is incredible but I suppose desperation can be a great incentive. The whole point of this paragraph was to state, in no such simple words, the importance of having the great friends that I have, and how lost I would be without them.
The people here are also very aware of the political climate and what is at stake in the upcoming election. As I am sure many of you have heard, this year will mark the first “democratic” elections in Egypt practically since Ramses (HAHA!!). As usual in the Middle East democracy is in quotes because although it is a good step, most people understand why the current leader, Hosni Mubarak, has opened up the elections to what has now become 9 other candidates. There is really no doubt as to who will win and that is not the interesting part. What is fascinating is talking to the people here regarding their reasons for voting for Mubarak. While most people say they will vote for him because he is the only one they feel they can truly trust, others have a different reason. Several people have told me that Egyptians are, shall we say, emotional voters. They say that many will vote for Mubarak because they would feel sorry for someone who has led for over 20 years and would worry what he would do if he lost. If he lost he would have to go home and basically not be president and that alone is enough to convince them to vote for him. It is a fascinating dimension to these people that is often lost in all of the bad media and portrayals they receive in movies and T.V. shows.
One of the questions that I have been asked by many Egyptians here in the streets of Cairo is in regards to Americans and their religion. What is just as interesting as seeing their reactions to my analysis of the United States is their explanation of the role of Islam in the Muslim world and more specifically Egypt. Although many of you know that I have chosen not to embrace any sort of religion in my life, I have a tremendous amount of respect for those who do. Our most trusted friend here in Cairo thus far has been an Egyptian by the name of Zaki who was born here but is a Catholic. We have had many discussions with him regarding the role of both Christianity and Islam. One cannot help but be in awe of how devout so many Muslims seem to be towards their beloved religion. Many Westerners, including myself, are very critical of Islam and especially the debilitating effect it has had on Western/Middle Eastern relations. What is not noticed and what cannot be noticed by those not living here are the positive effects. For example, the amazingly low levels of crime, drunk driving, and material excess that plague many U.S. cities are practically non-existent here. This is in large part to the dedication of Muslims to their Koran and their faith. It is impossible to dismiss the way Islam has been used to direct the masses to enrich the few but the aforementioned issues are some of what makes Cairo so amazing. Just one quick example: last night we were able to walk the streets of Cairo until 2:00 in the morning and not once did we ever feel uncomfortable or unsafe. We took plenty of the dark alleys we were told not to throughout the night and especially to get home more quickly but up to this point we have felt totally safe.
Much Love,
Nicholas Whitaker
Cairo, Egypt
October 2005
Time is relative in Cairo. For example, one hour means a few, Monday means Wednesday, and tomorrow never comes!! This is bad if you are in a hurry but for a city that never sleeps, it works like clockwork.
Living in Egypt and going to school in Egypt are two totally different entities. The American University in Cairo consists of two separate and distinct campuses in the heart of the political district, a great place to be if you are a liberal from Davis and also a very bad spot to be if you are a liberal from Davis.
The diversity of this campus is quite astounding as we enjoy a student body truly reminiscent of an International School. What really attracted me to this school was the amazing variety of fascinating Middle Eastern Political Science classes taught by professors who live, breathe, and truly meddle in the Middle East. Thus far, the faculty has not disappointed. One of my classes, Jordan and the Palestinians, provides a fascinating combination of history and politics but what makes this educational and cultural opportunity truly unique is that two weeks from now, a group of my fellow students and I will board a bus bound for….JORDAN!!
Our classes are split up quite evenly between International Students and those from throughout the Middle East. These students provide very interesting perspectives on more contemporary social and political issues that you cannot get from your professors and most certainly could not get from any school back home. Just last week my Government and Politics in Egypt class was interrupted when one of the Egyptian students told us that her father was responsible for the article we had just read. How is that for intimidation? I just remarked that my dad once wrote a letter to get my brother out of prison but I think the other girl won.
Life in Cairo is as unique as it is amazing. The foreign students here have become fond of saying that everyday one steps outside their flat is a new adventure, and it certainly is. My roommate and I found a quaint but cozy apartment overlooking the Nile River for about half of what we pay back in Davis. This brings me to my next point which is that Cairo is far greener and more lush than any movie or picture you have ever seen. Most people continue to think of Egypt as a desert, which it mostly is, except for Cairo which enjoys the fruits of an amazing irrigational system that provides agriculture and vista views aplenty. While Cairo also enjoys the dust and sand blown in from its surrounding desert, it lends a rustic charm to the buildings here that I have not seen anywhere else in the world. The night life is incredible as it is rare to see any street in Cairo not bustling with Egyptians and foreigners alike well into the wee hours of the morning. The streets are unbelievably safe as public drunkenness is not tolerated and neither are any hostile acts towards foreigners. Anyone who dares make a foreigner feel either unsafe or uncomfortable is quickly treated to a brand of “Egyptian Justice” that far outweighs even DOG the Bounty Hunter.
I understand how intimidating it can be to step outside of one’s comfort bubble, especially when you are stepping into a region famous for such unrest and unfairly bad publicity. This is the most amazing experience of my life and the people are like no other on earth. If you come here you will know just how it feels to live in the land of the Pharaohs.
December 2005
Living outside of one’s bubble is a difficult thing to do. I think that is perhaps the simplest explanation as to why we in the U.S. do not study abroad as much as some other countries. I find myself trying to explain that to people in Egypt all the time as they beg me to encourage my friends and fellow students to visit. Wherever I go I am often told the same thing, “We love Americans but we just don’t trust your government.” Take that for what it is worth. The people here feel much about their own government as people do anywhere. The taxi cab drivers may not all be fortunate enough to receive the kind of education that we take for granted but that does not mean they do not hear what some of us say about the Middle East. You will find a few bad apples anywhere you go but we cannot allow that to deter us from exploring this world and this region in particular.
There is not much that I can tell you about the EAP program here that you either have not heard before or won’t hear from some of my other colleagues. The classes have been extraordinarily interesting and especially those such as my government and politics class which is of particular interest during the most recent presidential and parliamentary elections. I will not bore those non political science majors with details but although these elections have not been without incident please keep in mind that it only takes a small group of rowdy young kids and a T.V. news camera to create misleading images on a six o’clock news hour. The professors here are wonderfully helpful but also plenty challenging. I am supposed to tell you all of the details but I think I can just sum up this part by telling you that if you can make it in Davis then you can make it here. The EAP program will take care of your every need and make your life much easier than even back home. They can even tell you what restaurants to eat it and which ones might give you the curse of Ramses. Please trust me, if you want to study here, you will be taken care of.
What I must tell you about are the people throughout the Middle East. I have been fortunate enough to travel all over the region from Egypt to Jordan, to Lebanon, Israel, and the West Bank. I could get into trouble for telling you that last part but they too are just as safe as anywhere in the U.S. Believe me, when people find out that you are American, you automatically receive 100 points. You can float in the Dead Sea, sail down the Nile, swim in the Mediterranean Sea, and even revel in religious history, without even breaking a sweat. If I can last five months in Egypt than anyone can. Please, just give it a chance and you will see why civilization started here in the first place!
